Red light therapy for skin care

It’s getting hard to escape the barrage of advertisements, signs, and social media posts touting red light therapy. Many of them trumpet big claims, including firmer, clearer, younger-looking skin. But is it all hype — or can red light therapy deliver?

It really can, says Dr. Rachel Reynolds, interim chair of the Department of Dermatology at Harvard-affiliated Beth Israel Deaconess Medical Center — although she was once a skeptic about red light therapy benefits. “I thought this was just the latest fad to get people to spend their money. But there’s legitimate medical literature supporting it,” she says.

What is red light therapy?

Known medically as photobiomodulation and previously called low-level laser light therapy, it involves using devices that emit red or near-infrared light aimed at the skin. It’s available in a dermatologist’s office or through a plethora of at-home devices, many of which use LEDs or low-level lasers considered safe for home use, according to the American Academy of Dermatology (AAD). Even home versions can be expensive, however, with masks, caps, and wands typically costing several hundred dollars or more.

“When I’m talking with patients about rejuvenation and skin care, patients are definitely asking about red light therapy more frequently,” Dr. Reynolds says.

Before and after: What results can you expect?

How does red light therapy work? It’s believed to stimulate mitochondria — tiny “powerhouses” in cells — to reduce inflammation and boost the production of collagen, a structural protein that makes skin stronger and more supple.

While it’s not a miracle fix for skin issues, the AAD says that research suggests red light therapy can help

• reduce fine lines and wrinkles
• lighten dark spots
• smooth skin texture
• diminish redness
• accelerate wound healing (such as diabetic ulcers or slow-healing injuries)
• boost hair regrowth
• minimize scars
• ease acne.

“It works on an impressive array of conditions,” Dr. Reynolds says, adding that the therapy is noninvasive and requires minimal recovery time. “I think you’re going to see the greatest demand in people already seeing signs of skin aging who want to try to reverse it a bit.”

Potential dangers and side effects of red light therapy

Unlike ultraviolet light, which can cause skin cancer, red light therapy hasn’t demonstrated such risks. It’s FDA-approved and considered safe, with side effects that are minimal and may include temporary skin redness. But scientists haven’t yet pinned down how long each treatment session should last — its optimal “dose” — or what doses are appropriate for various skin issues, Dr. Reynolds says.

Additionally, since various at-home devices have differing light strengths, it’s especially difficult to determine how much exposure someone is getting. “Over-the-counter products may be weaker, and it’s hard to know which device would be optimal to purchase,” she says.

Professional versions, on the other hand, “are likely to have the ability to better control the dose and provide a greater range of doses that can be calibrated to suit whatever condition is being treated,” Dr. Reynolds says.

Tips for effective use

Whether you see a dermatologist or opt solely for home use, regular red light treatments are necessary to achieve results. Also, the therapy complements, but doesn’t replace, other skin-savvy measures, including strict sun protection, eating healthfully, getting restorative sleep, and moisturizing skin regularly.

“For the devices to be effective, they must be used multiple times a week for four to six months,” she says. “It’s slow and steady. It’s not going to be anyone’s quick fix.”

Dr. Reynolds suggests these tactics for safe and effective use of home red light therapy products:

• Look for a device labeled “FDA-cleared,” which means the agency considers it safe.
• Avoid use if you have a light-sensitive condition such as lupus or if you’re taking light-sensitive medications such as certain antibiotics.
• Wear eye protection if the device’s directions recommend it. “Make sure the light isn’t going into your eyes, and if shields are provided, use them,” she says.
• Check with your dermatologist beforehand if you have darker skin, since you may be more sensitive to visible light like red light, which can lead to dark spots. “Folks with darker skin types should start with lower doses,” Dr. Reynolds says.

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