Hyaluronic acid for skin: Benefits, how to use it, and side effects

Hyaluronic acid contributes to skin’s dewy smoothness when you’re young. But its production in the body decreases as you get older, resulting in the loss of volume and hydration. That’s why hyaluronic acid has become a popular ingredient in many skin care products, including serums, moisturizers, night creams, sheet masks, sunscreens, and injectable fillers. It can help restore lost volume, replenish moisture, and soften the appearance of wrinkles by filling deflated skin folds.

What is hyaluronic acid?

Hyaluronic acid is a sugar molecule that is naturally produced by our bodies. It acts as a powerful humectant, a substance that attracts and traps water from outside and inside the body. It’s abundant in the skin and also found in other tissues, including the eyes and joints.

Hyaluronic acid benefits derive in part from the molecule’s ability to bind over a thousand times its weight in water. The related compounds created in laboratories for use in cosmetics (sodium hyaluronate, hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid) function in the same way as the natural substance, according to Dr. Abigail Waldman, a dermatologist at Harvard-affiliated Brigham and Women’s Hospital. “It has become such a popular cosmetic ingredient that it’s in the vast majority of skin care that you’re going to use, whether you’re looking for it or not,” she says. It’s considered safe and unlikely to cause side effects when used on skin.

How does hyaluronic acid affect skin?

Because of its water-binding attributes, hyaluronic acid helps skin retain moisture so that it can stay hydrated, flexible, and supple. It also improves the skin’s appearance. “Think of a water balloon that’s full of water,” Dr. Waldman says. “It’s going to look smooth and taut. That’s what hyaluronic acid does for skin. If it’s empty of water, it’s going to look kind of wrinkled.”

Can hyaluronic acid help improve dry skin or wrinkles?

Hyaluronic acid for skin can help soften the look of wrinkles and improve dehydrated skin. How well it works depends on a number of factors, including the ingredient’s molecular weight (a measure of a molecule’s size).

Hyaluronic acid can be formulated in different molecular weights. Higher molecular weight molecules are better at retaining water but are too large to penetrate the skin, so they remain on skin’s topmost layer. Lower molecular weight molecules are smaller and less capable of binding water, but can penetrate a bit deeper.

Other ingredients in skin care products called occlusives can also help your skin retain the moisture captured by hyaluronic acid, by functioning as a barrier to keep water from evaporating. If you are using a hyaluronic acid moisturizer, check its ingredients list for an occlusive like petrolatum or mineral oil, or natural ones like shea butter, cocoa butter, or jojoba oil.

“Not all hyaluronic acid gets in to where it needs to go, so it doesn’t completely turn back time,” Dr. Waldman says. “It’s not going to give you the really plump skin that you had when you were 20, but after a week, you should notice a mild softening of wrinkles, a bit more fullness, and less dry skin.”

How to use hyaluronic acid serum for the best results

Hyaluronic acid serum tends to be the most concentrated and potent form of hyaluronic acid. Here are Dr. Waldman’s tips on how to use a serum to see the greatest improvement in your skin:

Look for a combination serum. It should include high and low molecular weight formulations. Research suggests that products with multiple molecular weights can improve dryness, roughness, fine lines, and wrinkles within as little as one to two weeks. You may have to inspect a serum’s packaging for information on its molecular weight, or check the manufacturer’s website for this information.

Apply the serum to damp skin. Wet or damp skin gives hyaluronic acid the water it needs to pull into your skin from the environment. Follow up immediately with a moisturizer that contains an occlusive ingredient to seal in moisture.

Layer thinnest to thickest. The general rule: A thin product, like a liquid serum, is applied first because it’s designed to penetrate the skin. Next, apply a thicker product, like a gel or moisturizing lotion or cream, which is formulated do its job near the skin’s surface.

Frequently asked questions

When should you use hyaluronic acid serum?

You can add a hyaluronic acid serum to your skin care routine in the morning and evening, after cleansing your skin and while it’s still damp. Follow the instructions on the product in terms of the amount to use and how to apply it.

Anti-aging skin care products like retinol or the exfoliant glycolic acid may cause irritation and dryness. If you are using one, applying a hyaluronic acid serum to skin first, before using one of these anti-aging cosmetics, can help your skin better tolerate them and reduce their side effects.

Can you use hyaluronic acid with vitamin C on your skin?

Yes, these two ingredients can be used together. Vitamin C is an antioxidant that can help prevent some of the skin changes brought about by exposure to air pollution and ultraviolet light from the sun. It can also help brighten your skin. “If someone has a lot of irritation from vitamin C, they could really benefit from combining it with hyaluronic acid,” Dr. Waldman says. She notes that some serums combine the two ingredients, but if you use them separately, it’s best to apply the vitamin C serum to your skin first, especially if it’s in the form of L-ascorbic acid. “That’s the most potent form of vitamin C, but it’s also the most susceptible to sun, light, air, and pH changes,” she adds. “It needs to be used first to get the best effect.”

Does hyaluronic acid help acne?

Hyaluronic acid isn’t an acne treatment ingredient, but by hydrating skin and curbing dryness, it may help prevent acne. (Dry skin is more prone to becoming irritated, which can increase the risk of getting acne.) Hyaluronic acid can be used in combination with acne medications like retinol, benzoyl peroxide, salicylic acid, or tretinoin.

Can hyaluronic acid cause acne?

Hyaluronic acid is non-irritating and an excellent skin hydrator that’s not known to cause acne. If you’ve noticed breakouts after using a hyaluronic acid skin care product, check the product’s ingredients. Another ingredient, such as cocoa butter or lanolin, may be the real culprit.

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